In search of the origin of color. Roussillon,France. Golden Mountains.

July 2022, Provance, Roussillon,France. Ocher Trail.

"Situated in the Luberon, at the foot of the Monts de Vaucluse, the village of Roussillon is surrounded by beautiful countryside.

It is considered one of the most impressive villages in France - Roussillon is one of the "must-sees" in the Luberon, and is well worth a detour. Situated in the heart of one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world, Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries. The red, yellow and brown shades of the earth form a striking contrast with the lush green pinetrees. The vivid blue of the Provencal sky and the exceptional quality of light make this a magical site." says city tourist website. Could not describe it better.

Spectacular city of Roussillon from Ocher massive side.

Its says more that: "It is like an artist's pallet, with the infinite combinations of colors varying from yellow to purple with all the shades of pink and red in between.

Situated in the heart of one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world, Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries."

Map of Ocher trip

We wake early morning, as we need to drive from Cadent, to the opposite site of the massive. Early, as the extreme heat weve do not allow to enter the Ocher deposit later. Now the trail is open untill 9am. So we need to be there before 6am. Many places have been closed in Provance due to fires But this place, we can not miss out.

When enter the trail it welcomes you sculpted by storms, these former ochre deposits. Today an enchanting scenery hybridised the intentions of Man and the wishes of Nature.

Entrance of Ocher deposit trail

Cliffs, earth pillars, ochre-coloured sand hillocks, after being dug out by shovels and picks, are henceforth shaped by the will of the winds and rain.

These natural pigments have been used since prehistoric times and we can see evidence of that on the walls of caves.

Massive of Ocher deposit trail

In 1780, Jean Etienne Astier from the village of Roussillon discovered that, after processing, ochre became an inalterable and non-toxic dye.

He became the first ochre extractor in France and in the 19th century the exploitation of the mineral deposits became industrial. In the Vaucluse, the open-pit quarries and the exceptional thickness of the lodes (up 15 metres) made extraction very easy and production reached impressive figures: a record of 40,000 tons was set in 1929.

The pigment is used in the making of stucco for the Provençal houses, because it is heat and sun resistant, but also as a component, sometimes unexpected, of certain products: cheese rinds, linoleum, kraft paper, cardboard, ceramic, rubber and cosmetics.

The 1929 economic crisis and the development of synthetic dyes would toll the knell for industrial production of the pigment. Traditional production declined more slowly and is residual today.

Georges Guende, who has studied the flora of the Luberon Natural Regional Park for nearly twenty years, has brought to light the specificity of the flora found in the ochre mountains.

Walking through the ochre quarries of Provence...

The trail through the Ocher massif is an extraordinary experience. You step on the golden powder that surrounds you from all sides. Like a passage through a parted sea with only a golden sediment left at the bottom, the waves surrounding you have golden red colors.

Stones and powder cannot be collected on the trail. Everything is under control, even tangible. The protection of the object is on its heels.

The trail is not long. It's a 30 to 45 min walk. Dust is ubiquitous, it is and will be everywhere.

When you touch this golden Ochre you marvel at how long it has been in use. And that it was the first color discovered, used to convey a message, and an artistic message.

View on the Ocher wall

I would not recommend wearing white :D And better to have shoes for chnage after walk :D

It is a place I definitely would like to come again. Maybe when the temperatures, allows to see more and in pace.

After, no possibility to gather any ocher from trail, we have been looking around on the way back if can find any deposits to gather a little sample.

And luckily, not far away, in the near forest, easly we could spot it. It is even hard to belive how easy that was :D

After the trail, can not miss the Roussillon town. It is remarkable piece of art, full of ocher color everywhere. This tipical slow French town, where you want to stay till sunset and enjoy the dinner.

Street View of Roussillon town

The places worth to visit, which were closed due to fire:

The Bruoux Mines in Gargas -40-km (25-mile) labyrinth of tunnels, which were formerly ochre mines.

Les Demoiselles Coiffées in Bédoin -ovely country walk through the ochre fields of Provence on the site known as the Demoiselles Coiffées. These small rocky hills were carved out thousands of years ago by wind, rain and erosion after the sea receded from this part of the land. They are also known as the Cheminées des Fées (Fairy Chimneys), since this spot has a mystical quality owing to the fact it has so few visitors.

xoxo

JZR